Solo Travel Spain: A guide to visiting Setenil de las Bodegas
Andalusia is known for having many charming white towns and villages scattered throughout the region. But my favourite I have discovered to date is the unique and fascinating Setenil de las Bodegas. Located just 30 minutes drive away from the exciting city of Ronda, what makes Setenil so extraordinary is that you will find homes, shops, bars and restaurants built underneath the rock of the canyon it sits within. As you meander your way through the network of sloping streets, you will soon find yourself walking beneath rocky overhangs and alongside rows of townhouses known as “abrigos bajo las rocas” translated as shelters beneath the rocks. People quite literally live under a rock here and it’s truly spectacular to see.
Although a small place with less than 3,000 inhabitants, Setenil is not short of places to see and enjoy. I’m excited to share with you my guide to visiting Setenil de las Bodegas, an absolute must see destination if you’re planning a trip to Andalusia or the Costa Del Sol. I have visited three times and would not hesitate to go again. In this blog I will be sharing my recommended route through the town, from where to park, best places to eat and must see attractions that make Setenil so special. Are you ready? Let’s dive in!
How to get to Setenil de las Bodegas
Setenil de las Bodegas forms part of the route of the white villages of the province of Cadiz in Andalucia. It is around 60 miles from Malaga and takes roughly 1 hour 15 minutes to get there by car from the city. Setenil is also accessible by train or bus, but I would recommend driving or visiting with a tour group with GetYourGuide if you don’t have access to a car.
Setenil is also around 20 minutes drive away from nearby Ronda, so many combine a day visit to both Ronda and Setenil. If you do plan to visit both, personally I would recommend visiting Setenil de las Bodegas either first thing in the morning or late in the afternoon. Setenil is a small town which has become a very popular tourist destination in recent years, with many tour buses stop here between 11am to 2pm, making it very crowded during this time. Unlike Ronda, there is not much space to get away from the crowds in Setenil, so timing your visit is key. You can easily explore Setenil de las Bodegas in two hours, allowing yourself enough time to explore Ronda before or after.
When you arrive in Setenil, I recommend parking at the top of the town where you will find free street parking with amazing views from above. I always park on Calle San Sebastian, where you will find free parking spaces on either side of the road. Once you have parked and enjoyed the views, you can make you way into the town down a flight of steps off Calle San Sebastian down towards Calle Cadiz.
Top places to see in Setenil de las Bodegas
First up is the Torre del Homenaje, what remains of a 14th century ancient castle from the Moorish occupation of Andalusia. You can enjoy a visit inside for a fee of 3 euros and there are usually temporary exhibitions there. Here you can enjoy amazing views of Setenil from Mirador El Lizón and get your chance to take a photo with one of the towns ‘love inspired’ plaques ‘Lo mejor de Setenil esta aqui y eres tu’. This translates as ‘The best of Setenil is here and it’s you.’ To get to this ancient fortress, take a turn off Calle Cadiz up a slope towards the Tourist Information centre.
‘Lo mejor de Setenil esta aqui y eres tu’ | Setenil de las Bodegas
Nearby you will also discover the impressive Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Encarnación, a rare example of a Moorish and a Gothic church. You can also enjoy impressive views of surrounding Cadiz countryside and mountain ranges from here.
Make your way back down towards Calle Cadiz and take left turn towards my favourite square in Setenil called Plaza de Andalucía. Here you will get your first look at the rocky buildings that make Setenil truly unique. This pretty plaza has a selection of bars and restaurants where I highly recommend you stop if you want to enjoy lunch or tapas. Here you can soak up the atmosphere and enjoy dining alfresco. I recommend eating at Casa Palmero as not only is the food great there, but they also have the best homemade bread pudding dessert in the world!
From the plaza head towards the must see Calle Herrería, which is the oldest street in Setenil de las Bodegas. Prepare to be amazed as you walk down this narrow street shrouded by a rocky overhang. This street is known as the most romantic spot in Setenil, as couples often get a photo together under the plaque ‘Besame en este Rincon’ which translates as ‘Kiss me in this place’. If you want to see inside one the cave houses, there is a a resident who lets you see inside their home for 1 euro on this street! They usually play music to let you know they are open for visitors.
Head further down towards Calle Jabonería where you will cross an old Roman bridge over the River Guadalporcún and enjoy the towns signature architecture with a row of amazing cave homes. Here you can get a closer look and see these homes are not actually carved into the rock, but in fact have front and side walls with the natural cave forming the interior and rear. It’s truly fascinating.
Next you will reach the steps up to the Mirador del Carmen (get ready for a steep climb up nearly 100 steps) which will take you to what I believe to be the best panoramic views in all of Setenil. Here you can take a photo with the Setenil sign and visit the Hermitage of the Virgin of Carmen dating back to the 18th century.
Make your way back down the steps and head towards one of the most famous streets in all of Setenil de las Bodegas: Cuevas del Sol. Translated as ‘Sun Street’, it is named due to the fact it is the sunny side of the River Guadalporcún. Get ready to experience the wow factor as you walk beneath a rocky overhang with many bars and restaurants below. Top tip: stop here for a drink, not for food. It can be tempting given just how impressive this street is to stop for here for a bite to eat. However Cuevas del Sol is directly next to where all the tour buses drop off visitors and so it will most likely be very busy here. I have eaten here twice and have found the food to be overpriced compared to the quieter and relaxed atmosphere of Plaza de Andalucía. Enjoying a coffee or a glass of wine here is a great way to soak up the atmosphere of this bustling place.
And finally, cross over the bridge and take a stroll down what I believe is Setenil’s most impressive street, Cuevas de la Sombra or ‘Shade Street’. Here you will walk through a rocky tunnel that is so impressive, it does not not seem real. The protruding boulder creates a natural ceiling you can walk beneath, with walls either side. This street truly blows my mind every time I see it. It is lined with a selection of gift shops and deli’s, the perfect place to treat yourself to a souvenir. I’d recommend popping into La Cueva del Iberico which has a great selection of cheese and local produce.
And that’s my guide to visiting the white village of Setenil de las Bodegas. Once you have followed my recommended route, why not use your free time to simply wander and see what you discover along the way. I hope you enjoy exploring this truly magical place as much I have.
If you want to stay in Setenil de las Bodegas, take a look at available accomodation via Booking.com
Looking to explore a unique destination in Andalusia? Then look no further than the fascinating white village of Setenil de las Bodegas in the Cadiz region. Just over an hour from Malaga city and close to exciting Ronda, Setenil de las Bodegas makes for a fascinating day out. It is unique in the fact that many of the buildings here are built beneath rock….